Tournament play

How do chess ratings work?

Updated · Sergei Tovmasian

Short answer

A rating predicts a result. The difference between two ratings gives an expected score (level players 50 per cent, a hundred apart 64 per cent, four hundred apart 91 per cent), and you gain or lose the gap between that prediction and what you scored, multiplied by a factor called K. Beat someone stronger and you gain a lot; beat someone weaker and you gain almost nothing.

You are rated 1500 and in round three you beat a 1700. Fifteen points. Draw with him instead and you still gain five, because nobody expected you to hold him; lose and you drop five, because losing to a 1700 is what a 1500 is supposed to do. Those three numbers come out of one small piece of arithmetic that Arpad Elo, a physics professor at Marquette University, worked out for the American federation in 1960. FIDE adopted it in 1970 and has used it ever since.

The expected score is the whole system

The only input is the difference between two ratings. Feed it in and you get the score the stronger player is expected to make:

  • Level ratings: 50 per cent, half a point per game.
  • 100 points apart: about 64 per cent.
  • 200 apart: about 76 per cent.
  • 400 apart: about 91 per cent.

Then one line of arithmetic. Your new rating is your old rating plus K times the difference between what you scored and what was expected. As a 1500 against a 1700 you were expected to score 0.24. You scored 1. The gap is 0.76, times a K of 20, which is 15 points.

It adds up across an event too. Enter a nine-round Swiss as a 1500 in a field averaging 1650 and the system expects you to score about three and a half. Score five and you gain roughly thirty points, whether that came from five wins or from nine draws.

K decides how fast the number moves

K is the speed limit. FIDE sets it at 40 for a player new to the list until they have played thirty rated games, and for anyone under 18 who is rated below 2300. It is 20 for most adults, and 10 once a player has been over 2400.

So a twelve-year-old improving fast has a rating that sprints after her, while a 2500 moves ten points a tournament and complains about it.

Four ratings that do not talk to each other

You probably have several. FIDE gives you a standard rating, and separate rapid and blitz ones. The big online platforms each run their own system on top of that, usually a Glicko variant that adds a confidence range around the number, with a separate rating for bullet, blitz, rapid and everything else.

None of these pools are calibrated against each other. A blitz 1800 on one site, a blitz 1800 on another and a FIDE 1800 are three different players. Only games inside a pool move that pool’s number, which is why your first FIDE rated event so often produces a number lower than the one you have been staring at online.

Puzzle ratings work the same way, except the puzzle has a rating too and wins points off you when you fail it. There is a longer piece on what a puzzle rating actually measures.

What the number will not tell you

It measures results, not talent, and it measures them slowly. Ten games is noise. It is also a closed system: points come from other players, so for every rating that goes up in a hall on Saturday, one goes down.

The habit I would build instead is to stop watching it between rounds and look at it twice a year. Play the games, fix the thing that keeps losing them, and the number follows. If you want a target instead of a hobby, the thresholds that mean something are the title ratings: 2200, 2300, 2400, 2500.

More questions

How many games until my rating means anything?

About thirty. FIDE keeps a new player on the fast K factor of 40 until they have completed thirty rated games, which is exactly an admission that the first few numbers are guesses. Before then your rating is chasing your strength rather than measuring it, and a single good weekend can move it a hundred points in either direction.

Why did I lose points for winning?

You did not, but you can gain almost nothing. Beat an opponent rated four hundred points below you and the system expected you to score 91 per cent, so a win is worth about two points at K equal to 20. Losing that game costs you around eighteen. That asymmetry is the whole design: the rating only rewards results it did not predict.

Is an online 1500 the same as a FIDE 1500?

No, and there is no reliable conversion. Each site runs its own pool with its own starting rating, its own formula and a separate number for every time control. A blitz rating and a rapid rating on the same site already disagree with each other. The only way to know your FIDE rating is to play FIDE rated games.

Between tournaments, keep your calculation sharp with daily puzzles.

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