How the pieces move

How does the knight move in chess?

Updated · Sergei Tovmasian

Short answer

Two squares in a straight line and then one square at right angles, an L shape, and it lands on the square at the end of the L no matter what is in the way. The knight is the only piece allowed to jump. Every move takes it from a light square to a dark one or the other way round. From e4 it has eight squares; from a1 it has two.

Two squares in a straight line, then one square at right angles. Say it as you play it and you will never mis-move a knight again: two along, one across. From e4 the L takes it to c3, c5, d2, d6, f2, f6, g3 or g5.

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The eight squares a knight on e4 can reach. Notice that e4 is a light square and all eight destinations are dark.

Now look at the same piece in the corner.

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A knight on a1 has two moves, b3 and c2. Same piece, parked in the corner, a quarter of the power.

Eight squares against two. No other piece loses that much by being badly placed, and it is the whole content of the old advice that a knight on the rim is dim. The average across all sixty-four squares is 5.25 squares of attack, against 8.75 for a bishop, so a knight standing on c3 or f6 is already doing better than average and a knight on h3 is not.

It jumps, and nothing else does

Set up the starting position and play 1.Nf3. The knight has pawns on f2, g2 and h2 beside it, a bishop on f1 and a rook on h1, and it lands on f3 anyway.

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Move one. The knight on g1 is boxed in by f1, h1, f2, g2 and h2, and 1.Nf3 goes straight over the top of all of them.

Whatever stands between the start and the end of the L is irrelevant, friendly or enemy. Only the destination square matters, and the usual rule applies there: your own piece, no; an enemy piece, take it. That is the only exception to the no-jumping rule in the whole game, and it is why knights are the pieces you keep in a position with locked pawn chains, where a bishop can spend twenty moves staring at the back of a pawn.

Every move changes colour, and that has consequences

Look at the first diagram again. The knight stands on e4, a light square, and all eight of its squares are dark. That is always true, because the L changes the file by one and the rank by two, or the other way, and either way the colour flips.

Two practical things follow. If your knight is on d4, a dark square, and the enemy queen is on f6, also dark, she is safe from it this move no matter how close she looks. And a knight is slow: getting from a1 to h8 takes six moves, and even reaching b2, the square diagonally next door, takes four. The knight is a short-range piece with a long-range trick.

The colour rule also gives you a free calculation shortcut. If the square you want is the opposite colour to the one your knight stands on, the trip takes an odd number of hops; if it is the same colour, an even number. From c3 a knight reaches d5 in one move and c5 in two, and no route ever changes that parity. When you are working out whether a knight can get to f5 in time, count the colour first and you will save yourself half the calculation.

The fork is why beginners should love it

Because it moves unlike anything else, a knight attacks pieces that cannot attack it back. A queen a knight’s move away is not attacking the knight at all, while the knight is very much attacking her. And when it hits two things at once, one of them usually falls off.

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The knight on f7 checks the king on h8 and attacks the queen on d8 in the same move. Black must deal with the check, and after 1...Kg8 2.Nxd8 the queen is gone.

King and queen at once is called a royal fork or a family fork, and it wins the game on the spot. Knights fork more often than any other piece, and it is the first tactic I teach: see the fork puzzles and the beginner guide to chess tactics. The same geometry gives the prettiest mate in chess, smothered mate, where a knight mates a king boxed in by its own pieces because nothing can block a knight check.

Where to put one

On a square in or near the centre, ideally protected by a pawn and out of reach of enemy pawns. That kind of square has a name, an outpost, and a knight on one can be worth more than a rook. A knight on e5 defended by a pawn on d4 attacks c4, c6, d3, d7, f3, f7, g4 and g6: it sits in the middle of the opponent’s position and cannot be chased away by a pawn.

In the opening the old advice is knights before bishops, and the reason is practical rather than mystical. You know where a knight belongs before you know where a bishop belongs. Nf3 and Nc3 for White, Nf6 and Nc6 for Black, are right in almost every opening there is, while whether your dark-squared bishop wants e3, g5, b2 or f4 depends entirely on what your opponent has done.

Two more things about knights that come up. They are worth about three pawns, the same as a bishop, and which of the two you want depends entirely on whether the position is open or closed. And two knights cannot force mate against a lone king, which is one of the odder facts in the endgame and worth knowing before you trade your last pawn for one.

More questions

Does the knight jump over pieces?

Yes, and it is the only piece that can. Nothing standing between the start and the end of the L makes any difference, friendly or enemy. That is why 1.Nf3 is playable on move one with pawns on f2, g2 and h2 and a rook on h1: the knight simply appears on the other side of the wall.

Can a knight move backwards?

Yes, in all eight directions equally. A knight on d2 can go back to b1 or f1 just as easily as forward to b3 or f3, and the retreat Nb1-d2-f1-g3 is a standard manoeuvre in the Ruy Lopez. The pawn is the only piece in chess that cannot go backwards.

Why is the knight worth three pawns?

Because it averages 5.25 squares of attack across the board, against 8.75 for a bishop and 14 for a rook, and because it is slow: getting from a1 to h8 takes six moves. What it gets in exchange is the fork and the ability to jump, and in a blocked position those are worth more than a bishop's long diagonal.

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